Showing posts with label growing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label growing. Show all posts

Saturday, May 14, 2016

Economics of Growing Greens by Artificial Light

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We had a thought the other day about growing greens like lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and kale inside during the winter months.  What would it cost us to do that, in the limiting case that the greens would get no natural light through our windows?  (Thats actually not too far from the truth--most of our windows face north or are shaded for all but a few hours a day.)

We went back to take a look at our aquaponics setup, which makes use of four 4-foot-long T8 fluorescent light bulbs, and which we used to grow some swiss chard, thyme, basil and dandelion greens at our old place (there were other plants, too, but those were the four that grew fast enough to give appreciable yields).  We were pretty satisfied with the amount of greens we were able to produce from that little 48" x 24" area, but we never actually crunched the numbers on the economics.  So, today we decided to do a quick calculation to see how much it was costing us to grow all those greens, at least as a ballpark figure.

A picture of the working aquaponics grow bed at a young age.  Later it would look much bushier.

The lighting system uses four 32-Watt bulbs, and our electricity rate is about $0.13/kWh. That is, it costs us thirteen cents to consume 1,000 Watts for one hour.  Watts are actually a rate of energy consumption--Joules per second--but total energy consumed is what gets billed.  So instead of doing the logical thing and using Joules as a standard unit, utility companies use the convoluted unit of kilowatt-hours.  Add that to the list of science-business conventions that dont make sense.  But at least its based on the metric system!

So, when the four bulbs are all lit up, were consuming 128 Watts (or 0.128 kilowatts).  If we run the lights for 10 hours a day, we consume 1.28 kWh of energy, which costs us $0.17. (Differences in rates for peak hours, sales tax, and all the other junk the utility company charges for are included in that number.)  Seventeen cents per day doesnt sound too bad.

In the aquaponic system pictured above, we had four swiss chard plants among the other stuff, and were harvesting about 0.1 lbs of chard /week total based on our records, which works out to about 1 lb from those four plants over a 60 day period, or $9.97/lb. (!!)  Not nearly up to expectations, but keep in mind that chard wasnt the only thing in the bed (so the whole cost of the light cant be attributed just to chard), and since our fish were stubbornly refusing to grow, these plants were extremely nutrient limited.  Fortunately, the thyme and basil that we grew at the same time cost a lot more at the store than chard, so it might all even out.  

 But, just for kicks, what would the cost be if we filled the grow-bed with dirt, planted all chard, and it grew a little closer to expectations?


We can assume that ten swiss chard plants will fit in the grow-bed since we had four plants in less than half the space.  A generally-accepted representative time-to-harvest for swiss chard is 60 days, although its usually possible to start selectively eating the leaves well before that (which we did).  But if we take a 60-day baseline, and equate one plant to one bunch that youd find at the grocery store, wed have 10 bunches in 60 days.  So, the calculation then becomes $0.17 per day, times 60 days, divided by 10 plants to give $1.00 per plant (or bunch).  Considering that we currently find it for around $1.99/bunch at the grocery store, that seems like a much more reasonable deal.

Generalized equation to figure out the cost of growing a plant under artificial lights, assuming the artificial light is the only cost.  For "C," use the inverse of the number of plants in the bed (e.g., if you had 10 plants in one bed, use 1/10).  Similarly for "G," if you got, e.g., 8 pounds from 10 plants, use 10/8.



Looks like it might be worth giving it another shot at growing some winter greens indoors!  Next time well use real dirt, and wont count on a few anorexic minnows to provide all the fertilizer.  And now that spring is on its way, we probably wont get to this experiment again until the fall, but hang tight!  We wont forget!


Do you grow your own greens indoors during the winter?  How cost effective is it for you?  Let us know in the comments section below!



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Thursday, May 12, 2016

Book Review Growing Into a Farm by Anna Hess

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Maybe its because Anna Hess and our childhoods and childhood ambitions were so similar, or maybe its because both of our primary life goals havent changed all that much since age nine, but Hess new e-book resonated strongly with us.  Her easygoing and open writing style make the book a quick read (weve read several of her books, and finished each in a single session), and for folks like us, for whom homesteading is still a work in progress, its inspiring to read about the journey of someone who has made it for real.  And although Hess mentioned that this book is one of her more fluffy productions, there is plenty of practical advice for attentive readers.

The cover, featuring Anna and her homesteads first veggies.

The book takes an autobiographical tour of Hess life nearly up to the beginning of her full-time homesteading career.  (More details of the interim between then and now are given in her other books.)  For aspiring homesteaders (especially those seeking a secluded and rural property on a budget), Hess life lessons are an invaluable treasure.  Some of the most pertinent tidbits we gleaned from the book are:

Factors to look for when selecting a tract of land.  If the land is $300/acre, theres probably a good reason.  It might be polluted (e.g., from mining operations), land-locked, full of invasive plant species, 90% marsh etc.  Its also worthwhile to inquire about the level of the water table, especially if you are considering an underground house.  In the end, selecting land is an optimization problem with convenience, budget, seclusion, and start-up labor as variables.

How to screen partners/mates to make sure they wont get in the way of are on board with your homesteading goals.  Some folks start out with a fiercely independent outlook that theyre going to live off the land and do everything themselves, and dont need no help from no one!  (Jake may have been guilty of such aspirations.)  But not everyone is Dick Proenneke.  A second person can change the whole program in a good way.  They contribute a second brain to brainstorms, make the mundane tasks go twice as fast, and will come to look at the cool stuff you find in the woods, for example.

There will be setbacks, so stay flexible and positive!  The old farmhouse you planned to salvage might only be fit for condemnation.  Deer will devour your first crops.  A high water table will thwart your housing plans.  Your carefully planned schedule for moving to the property full-time will be demolished by unforeseen events.  But keep the ultimate goal in mind, and you will eventually succeed!  To return to the previous nugget, a second person can also make it harder to give up when things seem hopeless.

Dont wait until you move to learn the skills youll need.  If you want to grow your own food, do what you can with your current circumstances.  Start building stuff or prototypes of stuff you plan to use on the homestead, such as cold frames and food dehydrators.  It will make the eventual transition way easier.  Joel Salatin says the same thing about farming--experience is the key to success.

How to pester utility companies so they will connect your service.  One drawback of living in the boonies, depending on your point of view (and since youre reading this on the internet, well assume you would see it as a drawback), is that it can be hard to convince utility companies to connect electric and internet service.  With a tight budget (precluding an off-grid setup), personal pride (not relying too heavily on friends and relatives), and the power of the internet as an income-generating tool, utility connections are, for better or worse, a high-priority item in modern-day homesteading.

There are only two minor criticisms of the book we can conjure.  The first is that some of the details on Hess emotions, journal entries, and conversations with her future husband could have been spared.  For us, this was the fluffy part of the book.  For other readers, these details might resonate with their own experiences, so we cant wholeheartedly dismiss their inclusion as unnecessary.

The second is that some of the photos are blurry and/or unnecessary.  Pictures of everyday tasks, like baking cookies at an Aunts house, and pictures of other family members who werent part of the main story line kind of interrupted the flow of the story for us.  It was nice to see the faces of the folks who helped out along the way, but wed wager theres a fairly small subset of this books readership for which the photos will have real meaning.

In all, a book worth considerably more than the price of admission, and another great addition to Hess already great series of homesteading e-books.  Definitely recommend it.


Have you read this book?  Did you have a different impression than we did?  Let us know in the comments section below!

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Friday, May 6, 2016

Aquaponics vs Soil Growing Okra

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If you have ever grown okra in soil, you know there is a very small window in which to harvest your okra.  One days growth can make all the difference between okra that is edible and okra that is so tough and woody you can barely cut it with a knife.

This summer, I have been testing okra in both soil and aquaponics.  I started all tests using Cajun Jewel variety of okra.  This is an heirloom variety and I used organic seed.  I soaked all seeds overnight before planting.  I have to admit, this was great seed from the Southern Exposure Seed Exchange.  The germination rate was almost 100%, with only a couple of seeds not sprouting.

The only fertilizer I used on the soil-based plants was a bit of organic bone meal scratched into the soil as a side dressing two weeks after the plants germinated.  For the aquaponics plants,  I used both flood and drain and deep water raft techniques.  The soil grown plants did begin to produce much faster than the aquaponics plants by almost 10 days. I didnt see much difference in production between the soil plants and the aquaponics plants. All plants produced profusely all summer long.  But I did see one major difference that makes aquaponics the hands down winner.

When grown with aquaponics, the okra was still tender even when it was well over 3 inches long.  The soil based plants produced pods that were quickly tough when they exceeded 1 1/2 inches.  This is important if your schedule doesnt allow you to get out and harvest every single day.  Also, if you are planting for survival, you cant afford to let a single pod go to waste (or the compost). 

As you can see, in this flood and drain set up, the leaves are huge and the pods have been tender, regardless of how large they were allowed to grow. 

Another benefit of the large okra leaves is that they provided shade for my lettuce.  By placing my lettuce in the lower NFT tube, the okra provided needed shade.  I am in South Florida, and our August sun is harsh.  The okra allowed me to continue to grow lettuce with aquaponics when it would not be possible with soil.  This is another survival technique that I recommend.  Layer your garden to take advantage of  what nature provides. It will extend your growing season.

You might notice that I used marigolds on the upper NFT tube as a companion plant.  The only problem I had with pests was a brief encounter with aphids.  I have never been a fan of marigolds, but I am sold on their effectiveness in repelling other pests (especially squash bugs).

So have you tested plants in soil versus aquaponics? I would love to hear your results.

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Wednesday, May 4, 2016

Growing Media

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There are a couple of ways to set up your grow beds.  We started with a flood and drain system.  In this method the water from the fish tank cycles from the tank to the grow bed where it floods the bed and then drains back into the tank.

Using this method we started with regular pea gravel from the garden center.  The gravel is perfect because it wont absorb or hold water and has so many little crevices, nooks, and crannies between each pebble that roots can easily spread.  Because the gravel. Is dirty, we put it in buckets and rinsed it with a garden hose to remove the dirt.

The lesson learned is that gravel makes a great grow media, but even when you think it is clean...it is not.  We put the gravel in the grow bed and waited for the first flood and drain cycle to see if we had the water level correct.  The water level was correct but the gravel wasnt as clean as we thought.  The dirt fouled the water so bad that the first set of fish pretty much died within 24 hours.  The survivors were temporarily released into the pond in the front yard.  Good thing that we conducted the test with feeder goldfish!

Lessons learned.  Gravel is a great grow media.  Gravel must be thoroughly washed until all the water runs clean.  Always conduct tests with feeder goldfish.

Oh, by the way...some pepper plants and a green onion are the test plants to see how different root systems interact with gravel as a grow media.  They are loving it!

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Tuesday, May 3, 2016

Winter Growing Season

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The winter growing season was a smash! The lettuce did quite well, and I harvested about eight salads that fed four to six people each from February through April, about two-and-a-half salads per month! The first six of those salads came from the clay pebble bed that had densely planted seeds. The dense planting stimulated quick, vertical growth. It also ensured that plants did not grow woody stems, keeping the growing tip low, just above the surface. I harvested this like mowing a lawn,, cutting at about 2” high straight across. The plants responded well! For the first two months I harvested at a staggered pace, which kept the demand for nutrients relatively constant because some plants were in the high demand regrowth stage as others grew slowly near full size.

Mixed lettuce in clay pebble bed on 2/18/2011 (top) and 3/26/2011 (bottom). 
Gray coloration on bottom is due to grow light being off. Note that the gravel 
grow bed seen in upper right of both pictures has significantly smaller plants.
Meanwhile, the gravel grow bed which had plants spaced about 6” apart, as recommended on the seed packet, grew very slowly, so I did not harvest until late March. The plants did bush out nicely, each producing far more lettuce per plant than the dense plantings of the clay bed. The bushy lettuce led to woody stems and larger leaves, which I found could only get a few harvests per plant before the leaves got too tough or bitter (lots of white sap in them). 

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Gravel grow bed on 4/28/2011 before the last harvest.
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Conclusion: unless I need pretty heads of lettuce, I should plant the seeds dense and harvest often.

And what about the other plants in the system? Well, the chard...
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Saturday, April 16, 2016

Second Sunday of Advent A Growing Inner Stillness

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Prospect Park, Brooklyn
Advent does not lead to nervous tension stemming from expectation of something spectacular about to happen. 

On the contrary, it leads to a growing inner stillness and joy allowing me to realize that he for whom I am waiting has already arrived and speaks to me in the silence of my heart. 

Just as a mother feels the child grow in her and is not surprised on the day of the birth, but joyfully receives the one she learned to know during her waiting, so Jesus can be born in my life slowly and steadily and be received as the one I learned to know while waiting.  - Henri J.M. Nouwen

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Monday, April 11, 2016

Winter Growing

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After some experimenting with grow bed media in the early winter, I planted my indoor crop of lettuce and rainbow chard in mid-January. After about four weeks the plants look quite healthy. All seeds germinated in the expanded clay bed, and I then transplanted a few into the gravel bed. Ive given the lettuce in the gravel bed plenty of space, and Im curious to see how differently the plants grow in the dense and spaced scenarios.
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Expanded clay bed 2/3/2011
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Expanded clay bed 2/9/2011
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Gravel bed 2/9/11
The conditions in the water are not ideal right now: while there is plenty of nitrate (plant food), the pH is about 8 and the temperature is about 62-65 oF.

A pH of 7 or just below is ideal in aquapaonics. Plants absorb the most nutrients in slightly acidic conditions (pH < 7)  while fish prefer it slightly basic(pH > 7). So we compromise and try to make the water pH neutral (pH 7). The nitrificaiton process (turning fish waste into plant food) naturally lowers the pH, so the fact that mine is above 7 means other factors are at work. First, my gravel has lots of limestone in it, and the calcium it contains leaches into the water and raises the pH. Surprisingly, the clay pebbles also raise the pH, even though they are billed as pH neutral. I tested them by letting some clay pebbles sit in fresh tap water (pH 7) for a week, and they raised the pH up to 8 or 9. The plants are growing well now, but Im going to experiment with adding some lemon juice to lower the pH over the next week.

As for the temperature, the nitrifying bacteria prefer water between 72-75 oF. At lower temperatures, their growth rate slows down significantly.  I could use water heaters, but they are very energy inefficient, so Im trying my hand under cooler temps. The goldfish and lettuce, however, love the cold water. Currently, there is plenty of nitrate in the tanks, and I will monitor the tank to see if the bacteria are able to maintain sufficient levels as the plants near harvest stage.

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Sunday, March 20, 2016

Aquaponic Systems Growing Methods

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 Aquaponic Systems Growing Methods



The way aquaponic systems are built are endless. The two parts that are the same are the fish tank and a plant bed. Some of the differences include filtration techniques, plumbing, the type of plant bed, growing medium, and the frequency of water and aeration. Some of the more popular aquaponic methods emerging in the industry are methods based on a hydroponic system design, and raising fish for filtration.

Raft Methode



Aquaponics, ækw??p?n?ks, pisciponics
Aquaponics, ækw??p?n?ks, pisciponics




The raft system method is the first  of our easy aquaponic systems.  The raft system is also known as deep channel, float and deep flow.  The plants are grown on rafts made from Styrofoam boards that float on the water. The rafts are usually in a tank separate from the fish tank. Water flows continuously from the fish tank, through filtration components, through the raft tank where the plants are grown and then back to the fish tank. The beneficial bacteria live in the raft tank and throughout the system.
The water in the raft tank provides a buffer for the fish, reducing stress and potential water quality problems. This is one of the greatest benefits of the raft system. Plus, this method has been improved for over 20 years. The raft system is a well developed method that allows for high plant production per square foot.  Commercial raft systems can cover large areas, best utilizing the floor space in a greenhouse. Vegetable seedlings are best placed on one end of the raft tank. The rafts are pushed forward on the surface of the water over time and then the mature plants are harvested at the other end of the raft. Once a raft is harvested, it can be replanted with seedlings and set into place on the opposite end. The optimizes floor space, which is especially important in a commercial greenhouse setting.

The NFT (Nutrient Film Technique) Method


Aquaponics, ækw??p?n?ks, pisciponics
Aquaponics, ækw??p?n?ks, pisciponics










The second setup is hydroponic  NFT (Nutrient Film Technique), which is a method in which long narrow channels are used to grow the plants.  A thin film of water continuously flows down each channel, providing the plant roots with water, nutrients and oxygen. As with the raft system, water flows continuously from the fish tank, through filtration components, through the NFT channels where the plants are grown and then back to the fish tank. In NFT, a separate bio filter is required, however, because there is not a large amount of water or surface for the beneficial bacteria to live. In addition, the plumbing used in a hydroponic NFT system is usually not large enough to be used in aquaponics because the organic nature of the system and “living” water will cause clogging of small pipes and tubes. NFT aquaponics shows potential however,  it is used less than other aquaponic methods.

The EBB (Flood and Drain) Method 


Aquaponics, ækw??p?n?ks, pisciponics
Aquaponics, ækw??p?n?ks, pisciponics










Hydroponic EBB and Flow is the third method of aquaponic systems.  EBB and Flow or Flood and Drain uses media filled beds that are periodically flooded with water from the fish tank. The water is drained after the water level rises above the bell siphon and flows back to the fish tank. All waste, including the solids, is broken down within the plant bed. Sometimes worms are added to the gravel-filled plant bed to enhance the break-down of the waste. This method uses the fewest components and no additional filtration, making it simple to operate and naming it one of the best aquaponic system methods. The plant production is less than the two methods described above. The media-filled bed is often used for hobby applications where maximizing production is not a goal.

The Aeroponic Method

 

Aquaponics, ækw??p?n?ks, pisciponics
Aquaponics, ækw??p?n?ks, pisciponics

 








Another method that can be use with aquaponic systems it the basic principle of aeroponics.  Your vegetables and plants are suspended in a closed or semi-closed environment by spraying the plant’s dangling roots and lower stem with an  nutrient-rich fish water. The leaves and crown, often called the “canopy”, extend above the the growing container. The roots of the plant are separated by the plant support structure. Many times closed cell foam is compressed around the lower stem and inserted into an opening in the aeroponic chamber, which decreases labor and expense; for larger plants, a trellis structure is used to suspend the weight of your crops.
Ideally, your system is kept free from bugs, pests and disease so that the plants may grow healthier and more quickly than plants grown in a medium or the soil. However, since most aeroponic environments are not perfectly closed off to the outside, pests and disease may still cause a threat. Controlled environments advance plant development, health, growth, flowering and fruiting for any given plant species and cultivators.

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Sunday, March 13, 2016

PVC Strawberries growing system

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Growing in PVC is not a new concept.  I have seen other people do this so I followed "some" of their ideas and put it into a working system with my Aquaponics.  I decided to grow some strawberries in mine. However, this could grow all kinds of things.

What youll need...
3 - 4" PVC 10
1 - 1" PVC 4
1 - 3/4" PVC 3
6 - 4" PVC Caps
4 - 1" PVC Elbows
1 - 3/4" PVC 45 Elbow
1 - 1"x10 Vinyl Braided Tubing
4 - 1" Uni-seals
2 - 3/4" Uni-seals
1 1/4" Hole Saw bit
1 3/4" Hole Saw bit
3" Hole Saw bit
1/4" Dripline hose
3 - 3/8"x1/4" Brass Barb x MIP Adapter
Hose Clamps
Galvanized Steel Hanger Strap
A few screws to attach Hangers
3" Net Pots
Fish Tank Pump*

Lets chat about the Fish Tank Pump for a minute.  I put a star buy this as not any old pump will work. Depending on your system and the height that the pump is going to have to "push" the water up will determine what kind of pump that you will need. I have a RIO 2500 submersible pump in this system. I needed a pump that had a "max head" of 10. This pump also has a flow adjustment which is helpful for this.

When I first put this together I attached the ends with 4" Elbows and attached all the pipes together and started it right up. I did run into a problem of the water just skimming on the bottom of the 4" tubes and not reaching my net pots. I finally found an guy on the internet who just glued in a sour cream lid in his to create a dam. Then through the growing season he removes them. That seemed like to much work for me so I changed out our ends and attached the 4" caps instead. I must say the whole system works great. No over flows and the net pots are getting water. By adding the caps and the holes in the middle of the caps this allows the 4" tubes to fill 1/2 way up and then drain. This ensures that your net pots will get wet.

1. Drill your 3" holes in your 4" pipes. Depending on what your going to add you can have different spacing. I would recommend running a chalk line down the 4" tube (makes it easier to drill straight).  I spaced ours 8" on center. I have 14 holes in each pipe.


2. Drill your end caps. 2 of the end caps will need drilled in the middle of the cap with the 1 1/4" hole saw bit.  This is for the 3/4" Uni-seal and the pvc pipe which will attach to the pump and at the very end. The other 4 caps will have the 1 3/4" hold saw bit, 1" Uni-seal and the pvc pipe. Also, on these 4 ends you will need to drill a 3/8 hole to fit the 3/8"x1/4" Brass Barb x MIP Adapter under the middle hole on the lower end of the end cap. This is to help drain the whole tube. (On a side note...Uni-seals are the bomb! I will never use anything different! They hold, dont leak and are so easy to install. I highly recommend them.)
3. Put in the 1" Uni-seals and the 3/8"x1/4" Brass Barb x MIP Adapter in the 4 end caps. You will need a wrench to tighten the brass adapter. At this time cut 4 - 3" long 1" pvc pipe and put in the Uni-seal now. They are tough to put in...a little window cleaner will make it go in easier.

4. Attach the end caps to the 4" pipe. Mine are not glued. They do have a drip leak every now and then but I want to be able to fix or clean out in the future. Hang your 4" pipe. You will need a helper for this. They need to be level and attached with the hanger straps.

5. Now you just need to measure the distance between your 4" pipes to attach the 1" pvc pipe with the 1" elbows. Cut to length.

6. The 2 end caps with the 3/4" Uni-seals are for the start and finish. Attach a 3" pvc to 3/4 Uni-seal. At the start where the pump is connected, you might need a different piece depending on what kind of pump you get. Mine is set up for 3/4" inner dimension. I had to get a grey sprinkler piece to attach to the 3/4" pvc coupling. I did glue this piece together. 
7. Hose clamp the vinyl braided tubing to the 3/4" attachment and attach to pvc connector.

8. Attach the end cap to the end of the system. You will have a different system than me so your plumbing will be different.
9. Attach the 1/4" dripline to the 3/8"x1/4" Brass Barb x MIP Adapter and cut at the length you will need. I have them returning to my pond. Add your net pots.
3" Net pot
Net pots in 4" pvc growing system
Your ready to go. My pump is in my pond with the rest of the pumps and is set on a timer. This pump only runs for 10 minutes every hour. I might bump it up in the heat of the summer if needed.

I added a Parsley the other day and its happy.
You will have to adjust for your system and what works best for you. This didnt take long to put together and it so far is working great. I did add a PVC pipe insulator to my vinyl braided tubing to keep the algae from growing in it. I could easily add on if I wanted to and since it is running off of my aquaponics system I will not need to add any solutions to it. Win win for me.

Thanks for looking and Happy Planting!

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Friday, March 11, 2016

The Walipini growing season

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This year has been amazing! I can for sure say that I LOVE MY WALIPINI and my Aquaponic system. This has been the first year out here in the sticks that I have been able to provide homegrown veggies. I was able to start the plants much earlier in the Walipini and so far have had multiple growing seasons.
 
Strawberries took off!







Cucumbers and Watermelons are on the right

Baby Watermelon



My first crop from the Walipini veggies





Watermelon started from seed in system





Since I planed so early at night I covered the little ones with cups. Like a mini greenhouse. Worked great!

Above is my full system at the start of the year. Seems a little empty in this photo when I look at it now....because its a jungle in there now! LOL

Thanks for looking!
Kaydi

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